Angela K Nickerson Writer, Photographer, and Traveler

Just Go! to Dysert O'Dea and the Burren

August 14, 2008, 10:35 pm

This is the last part in a series that began here.

 

Drive on the Left! (part 6) Dysert O’Dea is a beautiful little medieval castle with a museum inside, but the bigger attraction for me was the falling down Romanesque church. The ground floor of the castle is now a little tearoom. I sat and enjoyed a cup of tea while eavesdropping on the proprietor and her friend chatting about their grandchildren. “Traveling alone, are ye?” she asked me as I ordered my tea. “Well, God bless ye! What a modern girl ye are!” This modern girl enjoyed her sugary tea and then bought a map of the Burren before heading out. The grounds of the castle – acres and acres – are full of Druid landmarks, medieval ruins, and a falling down church. I chose to hike out to the falling down church. The woman in the tearoom directed me to cross the little bridge and turn right.

What she didn’t tell me was that I was headed through a field of cows! And there, in the midst of the cows, was the High Cross or St. Tola’s Cross. Medieval Irish churches often had what are called “directional crosses” on their grounds. These large stone crosses, often intricately carved, marked one or more of the compass directions. This one marked due east. They are actually a hold over from the Druidic and Celtic traditions of large stones marking specific directions (think Stonehenge).

Now, they say happy cows come from California. They are wrong. Happy cows come from Ireland. As I traipsed across the field, the most beautiful cows I’d ever seen moseyed about – eating scrumptious grass and batting their long lashes at me. They munched emerald grass that looked delicious even to me and basked in the sunshine, admiring the twelve-foot tall cross in the middle of their field. I wandered through, taking photos. They didn’t pay much attention to me.

To read on, visit my home blog: Just Go!  http://aknickerson.blogspot.com/