For those of you contemplating a pilgrimage to Taos, NM, in search of the muse, please be warned that, unlike 30 years ago when I visited last, it has—like so many places—changed. Not necessarily for the better.

It's still gorgeous country, laid as it is at the feet of the Sangre de Christo mountain range. It is high desert, and the air is still clear, and as far as I know, there is no heavy industry nearby. It does, however, boast many motels and fast food emporia. I saw a McDonald's (I had a Happy Meal there), and Burger King, and there's probably a Taco Bell, though I didn't see one.

The plaza looks the same, only fancier and with more expensive items in the shops (BTW, always check out the bottoms of New Mexico souvenir items—many of them nowadays seem to come from China).

The sunrises and sunsets are still gorgeous, the Taos Pueblo Indians still live there after many centuries, and the Mabel Dodge Luhan house is still a lovely retreat (one of my early influencers, Natalie Goldberg teaches writing workshops there regularly), not to mention its historic significance as a haven for writers and artists such as D.H. Lawrence and Georgia O'Keefe, and the landscape around Taos influenced many great photographers, notably Ansel Adams.

I can still recommend Taos with reservations. If you're a writer or an artist, or both, it's one of those places you should see.

ML